How To Buy A Telescope : Telescope Buying Guide: Barlow Eyepiece
Monday, January 11th, 2010 at
5:43 am
Barlow eyepieces for telescopes are sold in different magnification factors. Find out about a Barlow eyepiece for a telescope in this free video on home astronomy from a telescope salesperson.
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Typically at around 80x the Moon will fill the field of view through the telescope. Going higher than that will show more details but you will not be able to see the whole Moon at once. To see details on Saturn or Jupiter really needs more magnification – it the 150x territory or higher, but Saturn's rings (when they are favourably orientated, which they will not be for the next couple of years) and some details on Jupiter are visible as low as 40x.
How old is your son though? A good telescope costs a tidy sum – think in the $200-300 region and needs some aptitude to use effectively. I would avoid the small refractors frequently sold by catalogues and general retailers – they are uniformly rubbish. If you don't want to spend that much there is the Gallileoscope at http://www.gallileoscope.org which is humble but reasonable quality and good value for money.
There are a few other sub $100 scopes out there that may be worth bothering with for some users (children) but do not think for a moment they are going to be good quality scopes capable of revealing a broad variety of objects. Magnification is not usually the limiting factor as much as aperture – how much light the telescope can collect. Any telescope can magnify as much as you want with different eyepieces, but aperture is something you are stuck with for the life of the scope.
The planets are usually straightforward with even a basic scope provided it is of reasonable quality and the mount reasonable sturdy – the problems come when you want to look at galaxies and nebulae, and that is when you need a much more capable scope.
Slaggers is right, except he has reflector and refractor names and descriptions reversed. Reflector has a mirror, and refractor has a lens.
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troyw95221 has added a photo to the pool:
I assume you're asking why bother to build a radio telescope if it has to be bigger to have the same resolution. Lots of reasons:
1. Some interesting things in space can only be seen with radio waves because that's what they emit or visible light is blocked by gas. Even things that can be seen in visible reveal different information with radio waves.
2. It's easier to build a radio telescope of a given size because it doesn't have to have as accurate of a surface. Telescope surfaces only need to be accurate to about 1/20'th of the wavelength of the radiation they are designed for. For visible, that means you need thick ground glass. For a radio telescope, thin sheet metal will do.
3. With radio telescope it's much easier to phase lock an array of widely dispersed telescope. This gives you the same resolution as one disk the size of the array. The VLA uses this trick to make a telescope effectly many miles in diameter.
Agreed, you hit the nail on the head, we are tool makers. My telescopes are tools just as our computers and their programs are. I merely raise my daughter with the ability to make her own tools whenever necessary. When we rely completely on tools made by other people we give up a portion of control and creativity in our lives. I teach and expose her to as much as possible and if I knew how, I’d show her how to make her own computer as well.
It's the square root of 1450. It would have to be just over 38 meters in diameter.
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It uses fibre optics.
and it uses the principle of critical angle and internal reflection.
Internal reflection happens when you shine light from a more dense object such as glass..tube to less dense such as AIR.
Usually the light when it goes from one substance to another is REFRACTED.
Like when you look in the water of a lake the light is bent.
but when you look from under the water up. the light is also bent to a higher angle from the normal.
There is an interesting effect at a certain angle NONE OF THE LIGHT is let through the glass and all of it BOUNCES BACK. THIS is called internal relfection and it will keep the light in the tube going from one side to the other till it hits the END OF THE tube.. since the END OF THE tube is a different angle then the critical angle THE LIGHT it trasmitted out and is seen in the eyepiece.
…..——————————————
a……….a………..a……….a………a…………a
……a……….a………..a……….a……….a…
……——————————————-
the 'a' is the light bouncing.. the hyphens are the walls of the glass fibre and the dots keep the position only ignore them
Hope that helps
haha wtf i scrolled and read ur comment right as it was being said…shit happens when ur high 0.o
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i think the guy doing the audio must have been a million lightyears away. very cool video. i love the butterfly nebula. its a thing of beauty. untouched by the wicked hand of man. amazing.
4:24 ..Tauren^^
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Another excellent video! thank you for posting..
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Nikon D200, Kowa 883 telescope with TSN-PZ camera eyepiece 1/320s f/8.0 at 1000.0mm iso400.
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Möge euch das ewige Licht leuchten…Ok, der spruch war wirklich unnötig xD
By coincidence, I have the same telescope (though not an LX200, I have a more venerable LX50 10"SCT).
Your OTA (optical tube assembly) has an f/ ratio of f/10. Using a 2X Barlow lens will effectively double your f/ ratio, making it f/20. A 3X Barlow would make it f/30, and so on.
If you're planning on doing eyepiece projection astrophotography, the same formula would apply.
If doing afocal astrophotography, it gets a little trickier, because the camera's focal plane is not held rigid to the eyepiece, introducing a variable.
Check out this link:
This should help a good deal.
Good Luck, and Have Fun!
Clear Skies!
Bob
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educational and interesting……….great post
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If i had a telescope like that, i’d be fucking afraid of it breaking…. idk just being random.
I fucking love this guy, so great.
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