How Can I Decrease A Telescope’s Magnification Without Changing The Eyepiece?
Thursday, December 24th, 2009 at
4:23 am
I have this cheap telescope that I want to manipulate to increase it's field of view/decrease magnification for an electronic eyepiece. Is there something I can do with the primary mirror? Do companies make the reverse of barlow lenses?
US $135.83
There are “focal reducers” that shorten the focal length of refractors. This is the opposite of the Barlow lens.
You can buy them, but they are specifically designed for particular scopes, and are expensive, probably more than what your scope costs. They come in 0.33, 0.50, and 0.63 power.
Making your own is possible. If you get two long focus objective lenses (a pair of front lenses from 7×35 binoculars) held close together, curved side almost touching curved side, that would be a good one.
You cannot use this on a mirror telescope like a Newtonian because there is not enough space between the small diagonal mirror and focusing eyepiece to put one.
There is nothing you can do with the primary mirror to change the way it focuses light.
The 0.5x variety will screw into the bottom of your eyepiece and work well. Shop around on line for the best price for you. the link below is just an example.
Thank you.
Most things published by the US Federal government are done so copyright-free. If they are copyrighted, you will see the little "c-in-a-circle" or "r-in-a-circle" (signifying a registered copyright).
If they are copyright free, you can use 'em however you please. Otherwise, contact the holder and ask for permission.
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Generally you use a telescope with an eyepiece. It's possible to get video hookups that let you view the image on a screen but I think this is far less enjoyable and gives you less flexibility.
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can you use a diagonal on a reflector?
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My philosophy has been to go with field rather than power. Higher numbers on eyepieces give you a smaller power (40mm = 85x for example). The lower the power the wider the FOV (Field Of View). A 28mm Plossel eyepiece is my favorite. It gives me some power without sacrificing a wide field. The narrower the FOV the harder it is to; 1) focus and 2) keep the object in view (unless you have super perfect polar alignment).
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The atmosphere distorts images and of course is where weather happens; you can't use an optical telescope through clouds. Space based telescopes do not have this problem … they essentially have unrestricted views from outside our atmosphere.
You can decrease or increase the concentration of a specific solution by adding less or more solutes, respectively, OR increase or decrease water, respectively.
Adding more tap water to the solution dilutes it, which indeed decreases the concentration.
And yes, adding more solutes such as FeSO4 and oxalic acid will increase the concentration of their respective solutions. (adding more FeSO4 to an oxalic acid solution will not increase its concentration, but adding more oxalic acid to an oxalic acid solution will increase its concentration)
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Given that Chile is one of the most seismically active countries in the world, how do astronomers protect their giant telescopes that have been built or are being built in the Chilean Andes? This blog post discusses how Chile’s most advanced facility — the European Southern Observatory’s Very Large Telescope (VLT) — protects its precious 8.2-metre primary mirrors in the event of an earthquake.
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Well, …, The larger the aperture the more you can see. They the following quick and easy experiment:
Close your left eye, form a very small "OK" with your right hand and look through the center hole will your right eye. Take a mental note of everything you can see. Now open the "OK" and look again. You'll immediately be able to see more. The ability to gather light, NOT MAGNIFICATION, enables you to see more. Thus a 6" refractor can see much much more at lower power than an 80mm (3.1 in) refractor.
We use mirrors more commonly because:
1) Large mirrors are much easier to make
2) There's a limit to the about of glass that can go into a lens before light can no longer pass through the lens of the lens becomes so large that it breaks from its own weight.
3) It's much easier to remove chromatic distortion from a mirror than a lense.
4) Mirrors are cheaper to make.
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Specifications:
Brand new and high quality This extension tube set provides 3 extension tubes that can be added between the camera and the lens, to make the lens focus at closer distances and produce higher magnification. Extension tubes are metal tubes with a rear-lens mount at one end and a camera-body mount at the other end This extension tube set does not affect image quality as there is no optics inside. In comparison, a close up filters are often blamed for degrading image quality. It moves the lens farther from the film or digital sensor Suitable for all Olympus 4/3 mount DSLR/SLR camera Color: Black Material: Aluminium alloy Size: 65 x 58mm / 2.6 x 2.3in(L x W)
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I got mine for $179 + shipping on For $300, or just a bit more you could probably find an ETX, I’d say keep looking or offer less.
I'll do the 2.5. I want it for focus certianly but also to have something to use as an eyepiece to frame shots and block light etc
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Nikon D200, Kowa 883 telescope with TSN-PZ camera eyepiece 1/1000s f/1.0 at 1000.0mm iso400.
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An OIII filter will be the best for most nebulae…I use Orion's myself.